We are reader supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Also, as an Amazon affiliate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
Mold on wood can be scary, but with calm steps and safe methods, you can clean it and protect your furniture and floors. This guide shows you how to remove mold from finished and unfinished wood, plus hardwood, engineered, and laminate floors. You will learn when you can handle it yourself, what to use (and avoid), and how to stop mold from coming back.
Understand Mold on Wood
Mold vs. Mildew vs. Dirt
Mold often looks fuzzy or slimy and can be black, green, gray, or white. Mildew is usually surface-level, flat, and gray or white, and it wipes off more easily. Dirt and old stains can look similar to mold. If you wipe a small area with a damp cloth and dish soap and the mark does not smear or lift at all, it may be a stain, not active mold. Active mold usually feels slightly damp in humid areas and may have a musty smell.
When to Call a Professional
If you see heavy growth, a strong musty odor through a room, or the moldy area is larger than about 10 square feet (roughly a 3 ft x 3 ft patch), call a mold professional. Also call a pro if you have health concerns, if water soaked into walls or subfloors, if you suspect hidden mold behind baseboards, or if the wood is antique or valuable and you are unsure how to clean it without damage. Always fix the moisture source first, or mold will return.
Safety First
Personal Protective Equipment
Wear an N95 or P100 respirator, non-porous gloves (nitrile or rubber), and eye protection. Long sleeves help prevent skin contact. If you are sensitive to mold, add a disposable coverall. Avoid touching your face, and wash hands well after cleaning.
Ventilation and Containment
Open windows and run a fan to blow air out, not across the moldy surface. Close doors to keep spores in the room. Place a disposable drop cloth under the work area to catch dust and debris. Use a vacuum with a true HEPA filter only; regular vacuums can spread spores.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
Gather supplies before you begin so you can work quickly and safely:
– HEPA vacuum with soft brush attachment
– Microfiber cloths and disposable rags
– Soft-bristle brush or old soft toothbrush
– Bucket with warm water and a small amount of dish soap
– 70% isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle (or 3% hydrogen peroxide)
– Borax (optional; mix 1 tablespoon per 1 cup of warm water, or 1/2 cup per gallon)
– Baking soda (for odor) and white vinegar (optional for deodorizing, see caution below)
– Painter’s tape and plastic sheeting for containment (optional)
– Dehumidifier and fan for drying
– Fine sandpaper (220–320 grit) for unfinished wood if needed
– Wood oil, wax, or finish for after-care if the surface is stripped
Quick Decision Guide
– Finished wood (varnished, lacquered, painted, sealed): Use the least moisture possible. Start dry, then wipe with alcohol or mild soap solution.
– Unfinished or oiled wood: Use gentle wet cleaning and controlled drying; you may need light sanding.
– Hardwood or engineered flooring: Clean surface carefully; check seams and edges for moisture; do not flood clean.
– Laminate flooring: Clean surface only; if moisture got under the top layer and it swells or delaminates, replace the affected boards.
Step-by-Step: Finished Wood Furniture
1) Dry Removal Comes First
Start by gently vacuuming the surface with a HEPA vacuum and a soft brush. Use short strokes and avoid pressing hard. This removes loose spores without driving moisture into the wood. Wipe with a dry microfiber cloth to pick up remaining dust. Dispose of vacuum contents in a sealed bag.
2) Choose a Safe Cleaner for Finished Wood
Test any cleaner in a hidden spot first.
– Isopropyl alcohol (70%): Lightly mist a cloth (do not soak the wood) and wipe the surface. Alcohol evaporates fast, which is safer for wood finishes.
– Dish soap solution: 1–2 drops of mild dish soap in 2 cups of warm water. Dampen a cloth, wring it out well, and wipe. Follow with a clean, damp cloth to remove soap.
– 3% hydrogen peroxide: Spray onto a cloth or directly on the moldy area and let it sit for 5–10 minutes, then wipe. Peroxide helps kill mold but can slightly lighten some finishes; test first.
– Borax solution: Mix 1 tablespoon borax per 1 cup warm water. Apply with a damp cloth, scrub gently, and wipe dry. Borax leaves a residue that may help deter regrowth, but it can look chalky, so buff well afterward.
Avoid soaking the wood. Repeat light passes rather than one heavy wet pass.
3) Rinse, Dry, and Buff
After cleaning, wipe with a cloth dampened in plain water (wrung nearly dry) to remove residue. Immediately dry with a clean towel. Run a fan or dehumidifier for several hours. When fully dry, you can apply a furniture polish or a thin coat of paste wax, if appropriate for your finish, to restore sheen and add a moisture barrier.
4) Deodorize Without Damage
Musty smell can linger. Place a shallow bowl of baking soda or activated charcoal inside drawers or cabinets for 24–48 hours. Keep the piece in a dry, ventilated area. Avoid direct hot sun on finished furniture; intense heat can warp or crack finishes.
Step-by-Step: Unfinished or Oiled Wood
1) Gentle Clean With Minimal Water
Vacuum first with a HEPA tool. Mix a mild dish soap solution (a few drops per 2 cups water). Dampen a cloth, wring very well, and wipe along the grain. For stubborn spots, use 3% hydrogen peroxide on a cloth and allow 5–10 minutes dwell time before wiping. Avoid soaking; unfinished wood absorbs water quickly and can swell or raise the grain.
2) Light Sanding if Staining Remains
If mold stains remain after cleaning and drying, lightly sand with 220–320 grit paper following the wood grain. Vacuum with HEPA again, then wipe with a slightly damp cloth to remove dust. Sanding exposes fresh wood if mold penetrated the surface. Do not over-sand veneers; they are thin and easy to sand through.
3) Re-Oil or Refinish
Once dry and clean, apply a suitable finish: a penetrating oil (like mineral oil for cutting boards or appropriate furniture oil), shellac, lacquer, or polyurethane, depending on the item. A finish seals pores and makes future cleaning easier. Let it cure fully before use and keep humidity low during curing.
Hardwood and Engineered Wood Floors
Surface Mold on Floors
Start by dry HEPA vacuuming. Dampen a microfiber mop with a mild dish soap solution, wrung nearly dry. For problem patches, wipe with 70% isopropyl alcohol on a cloth and let it air-dry. Do not pour liquids on the floor. Keep foot traffic off the area until dry. Run a dehumidifier and fans to speed drying.
Mold in Gaps and at Edges
Check seams, baseboards, and under edge trim. If you see mold at the edges, remove a small piece of baseboard carefully to inspect behind. Clean the surface with alcohol or peroxide on a cloth, then dry thoroughly. If the subfloor or underlayment is damp, you must dry it fully with fans and a dehumidifier. Persistent moisture under floors will cause mold to return and can lead to cupping.
When Boards Cup or Lift
Visible cupping, warping, or a soft/mushy feel suggests deeper moisture damage. At this point, call a flooring or mold professional. They may need to remove a section, dry the subfloor, and replace damaged boards. Do not try to “flood dry” with lots of heat or full sun; that can crack boards.
Laminate and Vinyl Plank Floors
Laminate and many vinyl planks have a wear layer that protects the surface, but if water gets into seams, the core may swell. Clean surface mold with a slightly damp cloth and mild soap or 70% alcohol, then dry fast. If planks are bubbling, lifting, or edges are soft, replacing the affected boards is usually the only reliable fix. Always check for leaks or spills that caused the moisture.
What to Avoid
– Do not use chlorine bleach on finished wood. It can damage finishes, raise grain, and does not penetrate wood well. Bleach also creates harmful fumes when mixed with other cleaners.
– Do not mix chemicals. Never combine bleach with ammonia or vinegar. Do not combine vinegar and hydrogen peroxide; used together they can form an irritating acid. If you switch products, rinse or let the surface dry between steps.
– Do not oversaturate wood. Excess water drives spores deeper and can warp or stain the wood.
– Do not use a non-HEPA vacuum; it can blow spores into the air.
Removing Stains After Mold Is Gone
Sometimes the mold is dead but the stain remains. Try these options carefully, always testing in a hidden spot:
– Hydrogen peroxide 3%: Apply to a cloth and lay it on the stain for up to 10 minutes, then wipe and dry. May slightly lighten the area.
– Oxalic acid wood bleach: Effective on dark water and tannin stains. Follow the product label closely, neutralize if required, and wear proper protective gear. Best for unfinished or sanded wood.
– Light sanding: For unfinished wood, gentle sanding often removes residual discoloration. Refinish afterward.
Disposal and Clean-Up
Seal used wipes, rags, and drop cloths in a plastic bag and place in household trash. Clean your HEPA vacuum filter per the manufacturer’s instructions. Wash reusable cloths in hot water and dry fully on high heat if the fabric allows. Wash hands and arms thoroughly.
Stop Mold From Coming Back
Control Moisture
Find and fix the source: leaks, spills under planters, dripping windows, wet boots, or damp basements. Keep indoor humidity between 35–50%. Use a dehumidifier in humid climates or seasons. Vent bathrooms and kitchens well. Move furniture a few inches away from exterior walls to improve airflow.
Improve Airflow and Housekeeping
Use fans and open doors or vents to keep air moving in tight areas like closets. Clean dust regularly; mold can feed on dust and finishes. Use coasters under plant pots and towels under pet bowls. Wipe spills right away. For storage, avoid pressing wood items against concrete or basement floors; elevate on shelves.
Protect Wood Surfaces
Maintain a good finish on furniture and floors. Wax or polish finished pieces as recommended. For cutting boards and butcher blocks, re-oil regularly. Use mats at entrances to reduce tracked-in moisture. In seasonal homes, keep a small dehumidifier on a timer or a humidity-controlled plug.
Special Cases
Antique, Veneer, or High-Gloss Pieces
Old finishes and thin veneers are easy to damage. Stick to dry HEPA vacuuming and light alcohol wipes on a cloth, and stop if you see finish lifting or dull patches. For valuable items, consult a furniture conservator.
Inside Drawers and Cabinets
Remove contents, vacuum seams and corners with HEPA, then wipe with 70% alcohol or a mild soap solution. Keep drawers open with a fan running for several hours. Place a dish of baking soda or a moisture absorber inside for a few days.
Cutting Boards and Food-Contact Wood
For unfinished cutting boards or butcher blocks, scrub with hot water and dish soap, then apply 3% hydrogen peroxide and let sit 10 minutes. Rinse quickly, dry immediately, and stand on edge for airflow. Re-oil with food-grade mineral oil once fully dry. Replace boards with deep cracks or heavy mold penetration.
Common Mistakes and Quick Fixes
– Using too much water: Switch to alcohol-based cleaning and work in light passes. Add a dehumidifier to help dry wood quickly.
– Cleaning but not drying: Run fans and a dehumidifier until the area reads dry to the touch and feels room-temperature, not cool-damp.
– Forgetting to fix the source: Track moisture to its cause—plants, leaks, window condensation, wet rugs—and correct it.
– Skipping the test spot: Always test cleaners in an inconspicuous area to avoid finish damage or discoloration.
Simple Step Recap
1) Suit up (mask, gloves, eye protection) and ventilate the room.
2) HEPA vacuum the surface gently.
3) Clean with 70% isopropyl alcohol or mild soap solution; use peroxide or borax if needed. Keep moisture low.
4) Rinse lightly, then dry thoroughly with fans and a dehumidifier.
5) Address stains by sanding or wood-safe brighteners if appropriate.
6) Refinish or re-oil if needed, and control moisture to prevent return.
Conclusion
Cleaning mold from wood is manageable when you focus on safety, low moisture, and proper drying. Start with dry removal, use wood-friendly cleaners like 70% alcohol, mild soap, peroxide, or borax, and keep liquids to a minimum. For unfinished wood, you may need light sanding and fresh finish. Floors require extra care to avoid driving water into seams, and damaged or swollen boards should be inspected by a pro. Most importantly, fix the moisture source and keep humidity under control so mold does not come back. With these steps, your furniture and floors can be clean, safe, and protected for the long term.